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Euphyllia is found in all over the tropical waters of the Pacific Ocean . In particular, they are regularly harvested from the islands of the Indo-Pacific including Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef.
Euphyllia are a category of Large Polyp Stony (LPS) coral.
Euphyllia are known for their large stone like skeletons and tenticle-like Polyps, known as Heads.
Some common Euphyllia Coral include Hammer Corals, Torch Corals and Frogspawn.
Hammer Coral Euphyllia:
Hammer Coral get their name from the tenticles looking like a Hammer.
These colors have Beautiful Polyps that tend to be very close together, but can also be longer and flowy.
Hammer Coral are found in a variety of colors, though there are many that are much more rare than others.
Torch Coral Euphyllia:
One of the most desired types of Euphyllia Coral are Torches.
Torch Coral have long colorful tenticles that pulse in the waterflow.
In the last couple years, these Corals have become a colector's Coral of sorts.
The varieties in color have made them very popular lately.
Of all of the types of Euphyllia, Torch Corals are typically the most expensive and slightly more difficult to keep than other varieties.
Frogspawn Euphyllia:
Frogspawn Euphyllia Coral get their name from the appearance of their tenticles being similar to that of Frog Eggs.
These Coral have beautiful, oddly shaped Polyps and are often found in purple and green varieties. Though recently, there have been other colorations available.
Green with brown tips or brown with green tips are the most typical colors and can usually be found at bargain-basement prices.
Some of the more exotic colors included neon green, orange, purple and gold will command higher but still very reasonable prices.
Most Euphyllia are not aggressive towards one another but some species of Torches will sting each other and any surrounding Corals.
In any case, give Euphyllia plenty of room to expand and move any neighboring corals that appear to be bothered by them.
These Corals are attractive to look at, can grow to large sizes, and can thrive in Aquariums with acceptable water quality, Lighting, and Flow.
Water Flow
Euphyllia prefer low to medium flow, between 50 and 100 times turnover. Generally a gyre or pulsing flow type is best for these Coral.
This flow allows the tenticles to pulse with the current.
Too much Flow can cause the Polyps of the Euphyllia Coral either stay retracted, or hit the skeleton and cause damage to the Coral.
Water Parameters
Euphyllia Corals appreciate stability (like all Corals) and do form calcareous skeletal structures so Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium levels are important.
Euphyllia will use up these major elements along with a variety of minor and trace elements as they Grow.
They tend to do better with some level of nutrients (Nitrate and Phosphate) in the water so Feeding and Dosing Amino Acids is recommended.
Dosing Nitrate and Phosphate is also an option if you find your tank is exceptionally clean and void of NO3 and PO4.
- Salinity : 1.024 - 1.026
- Temperature : 72-78° F
- pH : 8.1-8.4
- Alkalinity : 8-12 dKH
- Calcium : 400-450ppm
- Phosphates: 0,05-0,2
- Nitrates : 2 and 10 ppm
- Magnesium: 1200 - 1350
- Strontium: 8 - 10
Lighting Requirement
Propper Euphyllia care requires moderate to Strong Lighting.
This includes high par options such as T5 or High end LED.
Somewhere around 100 - 150 PAR is more than sufficient for Euphyllia.
When you find the location where the Euphyllia has full Polyp extension, it's best to let that be its home.
Too much light will cause the Coral to bleach. Too little light will cause the Coral to shrivel up and die.
When the lighting is just right, you'll be able to enjoy Beatiful Tenticle Polpys pulsing in the current.
Diet / Nutrition
Like many other LPS coral, Euphyllia Coral will thrive best when fed.
These Coral especially enjoy meaty foods such as Mysis Shrimp, though they will also eat Coral Food such as Reef Roids.
Even though Feeding Euphyllia will help them grow and thrive, it is not necessary for success keeping these Coral. Euphyllia such as Hammers, Torches, and Frogspawn are all Photosynthetic, meaning feeding is optional.
Fragging / Propagating
All LPS Coral species can reproduce both asexually and sexually, being both male and female.
In the captive tank environment, asexual reproduction takes place.
Small groups of Polyps detach from the main colony with tiny skeletons already attached.
The Coral will also pinch off its own tentacles. The tentacles float away from the main colony, eventually reattaching to form a new one.
Just like pruning helps keep plants healthy, shaped properly, and growing away from harm, Fragging does the same thing for your Corals.
Frogspawn Corals are fairly easy to frag, assuming you have a branching growth form to work with.
To propagate Large Polyp Stony Corals, you’ll first need to choose a healthy specimen that’s showing no indication of distress.
Use an electric saw and remove Frags at least two inches away from the Top of the Coral.
Do not use scissors or a bone crusher, as that will splinter the Coral skeleton and injure the Polyp.
You’ll want to keep an Iodine bath nearby in case the Flesh gets cut to prevent infections. However any injuries will heal very quickly.
Pests / Diseases
Coral Pests are pretty much a fact of life for any Reef Aquarist or Coral Gardener, and these parasites and diseases range from slightly irritating to downright lethal.
Euphyllia Corals are very susceptible to brown jelly disease, which can cause the Coral to die within a few days.
Other bacterial infections are also very likely to come in on new torches, and the Corals should be dipped and preferably quarantined before being placed in the Display Aquarium.
Pests to watch out for-Flatworms.
Euphyllia Eating Flatworms are small blob like worms that are often discovered by the bite marks or eggs on the Coral.
Flatworms are reddish brown, rectangular Worms that release poison into the Tank if they die. Flatworms should be removed quickly and not killed in the Tank.
These Flatworms are handled in the same way as any other Saltwater Flatworm.
In order to eliminate the threat of pests as much as possible, a Coral Dip should be used and the Frag Plug should be removed; again, quarantine will improve the chances of catching pests, but even then, it’s possible that they still slip by undetected.
